Hitch and gooseneck repair in Manchester, NH, for cracked couplers, coupler mounts and gooseneck couplers on trailers. We stay on the trailer's side of the hookup, so there's no auto body or car frame work. Call (603) 660-2011, or send a photo of what you saw at the hookup.
A crack at the hitch is easiest to catch while you're hooking up. So look in the same order every time.
Every pull and every stop goes through the coupler and its mount. That's why the check comes before every haul. For commercial vehicles, the federal rule on coupling devices covers how they're mounted.
A crack there gets ground out to sound metal, and the mount or chain loop gets welded back. It's the same method any cracked weld gets, and the page on weld repair walks through it.
Further back is different. Where the tongue meets the frame, a crack is a frame crack, so the page on trailer repair covers it.
A gooseneck trailer connects through a coupler tube at the end of its neck, over a ball in the bed. The tube adjusts for height with pins, and a latch locks it onto the ball.
The neck is where cracks tend to start, right where it meets the trailer frame. That corner takes the load every time the trailer pulls or brakes, so it's the first place to look. We weld the trailer half of the gooseneck: the tube mounts, the neck and its joint to the frame.
Honest and respectful, highly recommend
Surface rust is mostly cosmetic. What matters is section loss, because pitting at the latch or mount weld leaves less steel to hold the load. So a sticking latch deserves a closer look, and so does flaking rust that could hide a crack. Winter salt speeds all of it up, as the page on trailer repair explains.
Not sure which kind of rust you have? A clear photo usually settles it.
And if it turns out not to be the hitch at all, we're still a welder for every repair.
“Zach is amazing and does great work. Honest and respectful, highly recommend”
Most of it depends on the steel under the coupler.
A cracked weld on a sound tongue is a short repair. But a tongue that's cracked or rusted through needs new steel first, so it takes more time. Parts count too. A worn-out coupler gets replaced rather than welded, and that changes the job.
A photo of the coupler and the tongue around it is usually enough for a number by phone.
It depends on which part cracked: a mount weld or a chain loop can usually be ground out and welded. A cracked coupler body is different, because it's built to a rating. That part should be replaced, not welded. Send a photo and we'll tell you which one you're looking at.
No, our hitch work stays on the trailer: the coupler, its mount and the gooseneck. The ball in the truck bed, the receiver and anything on the truck frame are the truck side. We leave those alone, just like auto body or car frame work. So if the crack is on the trailer half of the hookup, send a photo and we'll look.
Call (603) 660-2011 before the next haul, while the trailer is still parked. Then send a close photo of the coupler and the mount, so we can see where the crack starts.
